What is solder made of? Soldering is a joining process used to join different types of metals together. Solder is a metal alloy usually made of tin and lead which is melted using a hot iron. Ilyan Grafenhorst Teacher. How do you stop water pipes from sweating? If your cold water pipes are sweating more than you are on these hot summer days, here's the simple cure.
Run down to the local home center, lumberyard or hardware store and pick up some foam pipe insulation. Khadija Feiteirinha Teacher.
Can you solder pipe upside down? Mikaela Fockert Reviewer. Can silver solder be used on copper? Soldering with a propane torch is the easiest way to join copper and brass.
You can even use solder to join copper or brass to stainless steel, you just need the proper flux. Use plumbing silver solder only. Sabela Zimmermann Supporter. How do I stop my pipes from sweating? The best way to eliminate sweating water pipes is to stop the warm, moist air from reaching them. This entails wrapping the exposed pipes — or any sweating pipes — with foam pipe insulation.
Yurik Horuzhy Supporter. How do you solder copper pipe neatly? How to Sweat Copper Pipe. Step 1: Assemble the soldering tools. Step 2: Cut copper with a tube cutter. Step 3: Remove the burrs. Step 4: Clean with emery cloth. Step 5: Clean with a fitting brush. Step 7: Flux the joint. Step 8: Heat the joint. Step 9: Use special techniques for tough spots. Yasmany Dorff Beginner. How do you deburr a copper pipe?
The easiest way to remove these burrs is by using a metal nail file. Insert it inside the copper pipe and at a slight angle begin sliding it over the lip of the pipe. Do this vigorously around the circumference of the opening. Use the LED flashlight to inspect your work and repeat as needed. Hrafn Orts Beginner.
Can you solder copper pipes vertically? Move up the joint, over its top and down the other side — you 'll see the solder wick in. For vertical joints, move the solder around the joint, being sure to cover it evenly. After soldering , I like to clean the joint by applying some flux while the copper is still warm, then wiping it thoroughly with a clean rag. Orencio Silkenbeumer Beginner.
It was entitled Patching a Mainspring Barrel. How I do it. It shows, step by step how I did this very repair. And, no! The work was done on a lathe with an overhead milling attachment, using a slot mill to prepare the barrel, and a circular cutter in the milling spindle, with the plug brass clamped to the cross feed tool holder to cut the plug.
The fit was so precise that I had to "tap" the plug into place with a watchmaer's riveting hammer. The solder I used was about the size of a grain of rice. Okay Doug. It's all Greek to me right now. I'll check out your article. Mar 31, 10, 83 Launceston Tasmania Country Region. Nice work Doug, very nice! But how realistic is it to expect the same standard from those of us that don't own the same equipment you used? I know I could not get close to that standard dovetailing in a piece by hand.
This is only an illustration of how joining parts that are a precise fit require next to no solder. The solder holding that patch would take no strain. When that article was published years ago, I received an unsolicited video tape from a guy who showed me how he patched a barrel.
It requires equipment to do a repair like that, for sure. Perhaps many don't have that kind of equipment. I'm certainly not saying that there is only one way to do any particular repair. And which ever method is used, as long as it is strong, neat, and it does the job, method isn't of paramount importance. I'm sure machining the pieces is way faster!
That doesn't meat that a skilled craftsman with a good eye and only hand tools could not match it. Look for example, at what Michelangelo could do with chisel and hammer. And a great job it is, Doug. One I'll never come close to matching. This was the first mainspring barrel I ever did using this method. I have done many since this one. I am certain that many could come close to this repair in practicality, even without the use of such equipment as I use.
It's just a matter of ingenuity, care, time, and determination to do the job right. The second barrel I repaired using this method was on a customer's clock. It was the time barrel on a gorgeous French crystal regulator.
The third one was on an old day clock on which I replaced 13 teeth using this method. I must say that, were I the clockmaker I'd like to be, I would have fabricated new barrels!
This method was one I came up with because I simply am not set up to fabricate barrels. Basically, it is only a method of "patching" a barrel. Hi Doug, I think that what you've done is entirely praiseworthy; you've restored a clock to working order with the minimum of intervention and retained as much of the original materials as possible. I envy your skills! Regards, Graham. Last edited: Oct 31, I think most plumbers clean well, flux, put together, then heat and let the solder wick into the parts.
You need to heat both the fitting and the pipe after tinning. It's easy to do with the torch when you have them next to each other. When they are hot the two will slip right together. Too much trouble. This is an update to Bang's original post.
When "laminating" two pieces together with a tiny bit of solder between, I had been fluxing, flattening a piece of solder and putting it between and heating while apply pressure.
Problem is that due to the thickness of the solder when it finally starts to melt the parts can shift. I also have pretinned both pieces where possible.
However sometimes when a narrow piece is to be joined to a wider piece it is difficult to tin the wider piece in the exact position without smearing some where you don't want it. I was making a leader for my Hermle. I normally would have used some sort of mechanical methods. However I had recently purchased some "Solder-it" silver bearing paste solder. I know in a post a while back TAT said he didn't like it. But I wanted to see how it worked with stainless steel to brass and to stainless steel.
All I can say is that I am impressed. Apply a little of the paste to one surface press together and they sort of stick together. Then with light pressure apply heat to the metals. One caution I found when I was practicing is that if you think you have the right amount your probably have too much. For my jobs I was just using a tiny amount on the end of a tooth pick to place it and spread it. It wetted stainless steel nicely. You must log in or register to reply here.
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This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. Mike Willis Mike Willis 1 1 gold badge 4 4 silver badges 8 8 bronze badges. And it's not the copper, nor the solder, needing flux to be soldered. Anything that is not copper or solder needs it : — rackandboneman. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Going point by point: Flux typically promotes bonding between the base metals and the solder.
If all your flux burns or gets oxidized before you've finished brazing the joint, then the solder will be less likely to flow where you need it because the base metals will tend to oxidize. Solder doesn't bond as well with oxidized surfaces, so instead, it balls-up and drips off. This is possible, but difficult. Unless you were in an anaerobic environment and even then it might not work you'd probably not get a good bond. Wikipedia is pretty good on this one. Not right at the joint right away.
When you are promoting solder flow, then you do want to focus the flame very tightly. Yes, to heat the surrounding pipe initially. Yes, because the metal here is also often a bit thicker than anywhere else, so it takes the most energy to heat up to brazing temperatures. I think I answered this part above. When this happens, it's because the molten solder cannot wet the copper.
Flux lowers the surface energy of the bare copper another of its functions , which is how it promotes wicking, but if the copper isn't hot enough, it won't wet either. Improve this answer. Hari Ganti Hari Ganti 2, 2 2 gold badges 22 22 silver badges 42 42 bronze badges.
Today I learned I know we're supposed to avoid comments just to say thanks, but damn, that was such a great answer. I feel much more confident in sweating pipes now that I actually understand what's happening — Mike Willis. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password.
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