Boots that are too loose will not react as well - it will take more exagerated movements to flex the boot and therefore the ski, and your foot will "slosh" around causing many many types of discomfort. Toe bang, shin bang, cramped feet from clenching your feet, and numbness can all result from boots that are too big, even if they felt "comfy" when you got them.
Another fact is that many "beginner" skiers don't understant that a skiboot should be "tight" - not agonizingly so - so they will not even attempt to give someone they categorize that way even a performance fit because so many are resistant to it. Take a look at the boot articles in the Gearipedia section for additional information, too.
SnowHot Ski Diva Extraordinaire. Persee pretty much summed it up. Fit, flex and cost are the primary concerns for a beginner boot fitting Hope this is helpful. Came across this good info as I consider how to deal with packed out liners for the boots I've been using for just over three seasons.
As a petite older woman, I have relatively soft boots for a solid advanced skier. Went with a 3-buckle design to get short cuffs. Second pair I bought from my local boot fitter in central North Carolina during late season sales. They were "new old stock" so the price was very good. The shells are fine so I'll probably just get heat moldable replacement liners. For those who haven't read them and are considering buying boots in the near future, the reference threads mentioned are in the Gearipedia section.
Some related info in a recent thread asking about boot flex. Racers use stiff boots that can be hard to get on and off. But as with fitting ski boots in general, there are a lot of variables and investing time and money working with an experienced boot fitter is the best approach in the long run.
You must log in or register to reply here. Staff online. Members Online ski diva. Total: members: 2, guests: Latest posts. Ski Gear. Ski Tips. Miscellaneous Discussions. Many models are available depending on the percentage of rocker used in the end sections.
Cambered skis are great if you want to make carving turns and practice other advanced techniques. Mixed skis with a bit of rocker will help you make basic turns. In addition, the shape of the tips makes it easier to turn at a lower speed.
Length is a really important factor when choosing the best downhill skis. Off-piste skis should be longer, though. If you are a beginner, you can opt for a model about 15 cm shorter than you are. Check out this ski size chart. As for the width, I recommend looking for a ski that is not too wide. Most beginners start with narrow skis, from 75 mm to 80 mm. Wider skis would be good for backcountry skiing. The turn radius is determined by the width difference between the end sections and the middle of the ski.
This value helps us understand the ski performance to make turns. Skis with a lower radius can make tighter turns.
For instance, slalom skis have a radius of 10 to 12 meters. I recommend that you look for models that come with bindings. By the way, regular bindings should work well for many years. If you are just starting out, you should opt for comfortable, relatively lightweight skis.
Avoid models that are extremely lightweight, though. Advanced skiers usually choose heavier skis because they provide more stability when descending at high speeds. Most skis still include a wood core in their construction. However, other layers made of synthetic materials, carbon fiber, and various alloys are used to build the ski structure.
Latest-generation materials have managed to improve some important functions such as shock absorption, weight, and flexibility. By doing this, you will avoid ski damage and prevent the bindings from rusting. If you see some white areas on the bottom sides of the skis, it may indicate that you should wax them. This will depend on the type of ski you practice, the type of snow, and how often you ski.
For basic maintenance, many people use their own files. Other skiers, however, prefer to take their gear to the ski shop. If you click on the link and purchase the item, I will earn advertising fees. I have been traveling the world for the last 10 years and I hope my experiences, photos and hiking routes inspire you to travel the world too.
Well done. I like the detail. Just a quickie When is the time right to change from a beginner ski to an intermediate ski? When did you change? As I'm improving I reckon it would be good to know when a change would be good and the positives and negatives.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person. When you start feeling like you are skiing a pair of cooked noodles it's time to upgrade. Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I am not expert on skis, both ways of reading that but I might be able to help you. Most beginner skis are "soft" which means flexible. They give you plenty of stability going slowly and will snowplough easily. You start to notice their limitations as you go a bit quicker and start to use the edges of the ski rather than the flat bottoms. Incidentally, some quite decent skiers never get this far - it is amazing how well you can get around just by skidding, in which case it doesn't matter much what skis you are on!
If you are having lessons - and if you ar not, you could well be as I describe above- and are trying to roll your ankles into the slope and follow the cut of the edge as it turns you up the hill as well as turning by extending your legs then you are starting to use the working bits of the ski. It is about this point that the ski you are on stiffness wise will start to make a difference. I am not an expert, but hopefully I have made a start so more knowledgeable people can add their thoughts.
You need to Login to know who's really who. Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. I'm not an expert at picking skis, but my best answer would be to change when you start to feel that your skis are limiting you.
You can notice this as you build up speed and perhaps start feeling that you don't really trust you're skis anymore. Of course, you need to trust your own abilities first. As a rule of thumb, if the skis start wobbling, they're too flexible for your speed. Generally, I agree with what Chris Bish said, except that I do think it matters what skis you have when you're skidding too.
Same problem, soft planks may start to shake too much. You'll need to Register first of course. It all depends what your beginner ski is. It might be perfectly adequate for intermediate skiers Then you can post your own questions or snow reports Welcome to s hothoundz.
They're just don't have enough technique to use the skis properly and find that a more advanced ski feels more stable because it's generally easier. When you start to carve properly, and use your edges properly, then you'll be capable of out-skiing your ski. It's all too easy to get fixated on spending money on kit - in the hope that it'll substitute for technique or lessons.
I think there comes a definite point where, as a skier, you can ski two pairs of skis; can discern a difference and prefer the feel of one pair over another. And feeling good on your kit is really important.
So, another view is to say that you should take opportunities to try other skis and, when you can tell the difference, go for the skis you prefer.
Ignore the "beginner", "intermediate", etc labels. Ski what feels best for you. After all it is free. Excellent stuff. Well I will take advantage of trying another pair of skis from the hire shop next time to see if I prefer them and how they feel. Have noticed too much shaking at speed which feels a bit unsettling so it'd be good to remedy that. Incidentally, weather forecast indicates more large dumps alpine-wise mid-late Jan You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
FlyingStantoni , Your rant has a lot in common with my ideas!
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